🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.