Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
